As the leaves take on their orange hues and warm summer evenings give way to crisp autumn nights, fall’s holy trinity of pumpkin spice everything, cozy flannels, and of course, jeans, emerges from hibernation once again. Denim’s chameleon-like ability to fit into almost any aesthetic and occasion has cemented its spot in any wardrobe. But while there is no shortage of vendors with their own take on this timeless™ garment, nothing packs the same punch as a well-worn pair of vintage jeans.

Wash

A wonderfully faded pair of jeans is the product of countless wears and washes. Because no two pairs share the same complexion, the patina of vintage denim gives it a sense of character that artificially washed jeans can’t match. Often, bumping your outfit up a notch isn’t achieved by throwing on a statement piece or adding more accessories, but rather subtly tweaking a core piece of the ensemble. Your personalized vintage wash on a pair of jeans can be that perfect dose of different.

Silhouette

There are many different models of vintage jeans, but a uniting characteristic is their roominess compared with their contemporary counterparts. On the extreme end are the JNCO jeans with their barrel-like legs, but unless you’re really committed to that look, I recommend sticking with the iconic Levi’s 501. The straight silhouette gives you the option of playing with roomier fits without venturing too far into the world of wide pants. A good pair of pants bridges the top with footwear to balance the outfit. The beauty of the 501 silhouette is its versatility. It serves as the perfect extension of standard, boxy, and even loose-fitting tops while maintaining great chemistry with classic sneakers like Vans Old Skools, Converse High Tops, and Nike Air Force 1’s.

But why buy a vintage pair when brands like Everlane, Uniqlo, and Madewell offer straight fit jeans without the hassle of digging? While you could buy straight cut jeans from several mall brands, countless wears and washes produce small sags and stretch in just the right areas to give a vintage pair that relaxed, lived-in look.

Rise

Rise, the distance between the crotch and waistband, is a factor that seems small but is a crucial determinant of comfortability. As with most things fashion, this is a matter of taste, so it is important to keep in mind that most vintage jeans have a higher rise. While there is some disagreement about whether high rise jeans have a slimming effect, I believe they sit better on your hips and are thus much more comfortable.

Distressing & Other Ornamentation

Mono no aware, or “the pathos of things,” is a philosophy predicated on embracing the inevitability of aging and finding beauty in the imperfections. Distressing is the perfect embodiment of this. Like the wash and fade, distressing gives jeans a bit of added character. Since vintage jeans have been around for a couple of decades, it should come as no surprise that many of them come with a few rips and tears. The most dangerous thing when playing with distressing is overdoing it. Vintage jeans usually acquire their scars through the natural wearing process, lowering this risk.

But distressing isn’t the only form of ornamentation. Paint splotches, repairs, and embroidery are characteristics of vintage denim that are welcome additions in the right context.

Environmental Sustainability

Buying vintage has long been touted as an eco-friendly way to look good while reducing your carbon footprint, and jeans are no exception. The process of constructing a pair of jeans from scratch is incredibly resource intensive, consuming copious amounts of water as well as energy to run the machinery and transport the garments. While brands like Everlane strive to be as clean as possible, it’s impossible to beat not making a new pair at all.

Beyond Jeans

Jeans and denim go hand in hand, but there are so many other types of vintage denim garments.

Sturdy, versatile, and sharp, denim jackets are key for the Spring and Fall wardrobes. Some great vintage styles to look out for are Levi’s Type II, Sherpa jackets, and Lee Stormrider.

Chambray, denim’s softer cousin, is commonly found in western button downs. Their rugged aesthetic lends the outfit a hint of “Wild West” toughness, making the chambray shirt a welcome break from more conventional oxford or broadcloth button downs.

Although many denim bags you’ll find aren’t themselves vintage pieces, they’re usually crafted from repurposed jeans. The handcrafted aspect blends with denim’s sturdiness to create a unique and functional accessory.

Where To Buy

If you want to take the plunge into the world of vintage denim, it would be helpful to know where to look.

I highly recommend trying before buying because sizing can be confusing with vintage jeans. There are very few stores in the Bay Area that specialize in curating vintage denim pieces, but Slash Denim here in Berkeley has a jaw-droppingly expansive selection.

Online marketplaces like eBay and Etsy can be a goldmine for vintage jeans. I suggest checking the laundry tags and back patch (if it’s still intact) for a “Made in USA” label. While not necessary, jeans crafted in the USA were made during a time when garments were made to last. Construction tends to be sturdier, stitches hold longer, and hardware is tougher. But most importantly: know your measurements and don’t be afraid to ask sellers for the actual dimensions. Refrain from going off of the size stamped on the tag, as vintage jeans tend to run small. Finding your measurements is more difficult than it sounds, but I can break it down into 4 easy steps:

Find a pair of pants that fit you well and have the shape and cut you want.
Lie the garment on a flat surface to minimize wrinkles and bunching.
Using a measuring tape, measure the waist, rise, thigh, inseam, knee, and leg opening.
Save the dimensions on your phone, so you don’t forget them.

Small online boutiques can be great, as well. Berkeley based online store Barnaby Jack regularly stocks vintage Levis, as well as other one of a kind pieces. Do note, however, that this boutique is catered towards womenswear, so sizes may fall on the smaller end.

Good Luck!

Whether you’re ready to give vintage denim a try, staunchly opposed, or still on the fence, I hope you came away some new knowledge about vintage denim. If you do decide to dip your toes in the water, I’ll leave you with one last bit of advice that has helped me tremendously: be patient. Finding that perfect pair is not always easy, but when you finally do, I can assure you it’ll be worth the wait.

Words by Kyle Tang

Photography by Sierra Margolis

The Case for Vintage Denim