Buy This, Not That!
As fellow college students, we at Garb want to make sure that you’re not spending your money on cheaply made products that you thought were high quality. Granted, buying higher quality products will involve paying more upfront, but the investment is worth it. Your clothes will be more comfortable, look nicer, and last longer than cheaply made pieces. Here are some general guidelines to help you buy smart.
DRESS SHOES
Buy Goodyear welt, not cemented
When buying dress shoes, the method of attaching the upper to the sole is a good tell of quality. Blake stitched and Goodyear welted shoes use (you guessed it) stitching to attach the soles to the uppers, while cemented shoes use adhesive as the main attachment medium. Stitched shoes will cost you significantly more, but will last longer and are more easily resoleable in comparison to their cemented counterparts. Often times, ready-to-wear shoes and outlet quality shoes will have fake, non-functional stitching instead of a cemented construction. If you think you’re getting stitched shoes for $30 at Macy’s, think again. Allen Edmonds, Alden, Crockett and Jones, Rancourt, Chippewa, and Meermin are some brands that are known for their high-quality construction, and although they are on the more expensive side, buying them during a sale, searching for second-hand pairs on eBay/Grailed, or finding a good deal on factory seconds can make your purchase easily worth it.
LEATHER
Thirteen 50 Leather //
Buy top or full grain leather, not genuine or bonded
In dress shoes, bags, belts, and even sneakers, leather grade is one of the most important indicators of quality. Bonded leather is the lowest tier in terms of quality, and consists of leather shreds that have been re-glued to form a single piece. “Genuine leather” isn’t actually a proud declaration of the leather’s heritage, rather it’s one of the lowest qualities of leather that you can buy. Instead, look for top-grain and full-grain leather. Top grain leather, which has been sanded and finished, is thinner and lower quality than full grain leather, but is much higher quality than genuine or bonded leather. Full grain leather has not been sanded and remains thick and durable, and the fully intact leather grain means that the leather will not tear.
JEANS
Buy selvedge denim, not unfinished seams
While definitely a point of contention for denim aficionados, most people prefer selvedge denim to regular denim. Selvedge denim is woven on a narrow shuttle loom, giving it a tighter, sturdier weave and a finished outseam. Although non-selvedge denim does not necessarily equate to poorer quality, selvedge denim has a cleaner look and is less prone to fraying/unraveling in comparison to its non-selvedge counterpart. If you cuff your pants or prefer the cleaner look of a finished seam, try out a pair of selvedge jeans.
FABRICS
The Daily Worth // This is what you should be doing when you buy clothes. Be like this person.
Buy thick, not thin
Feel fabrics. Often times you won’t be able to tell quality just by the type of fiber used. Synthetic fibers sound unappealing, but are often times the optimal fiber for the job. In general though, more densely woven threads usually equate to better comfort and longevity. If you’re having a hard time choosing between two similar pieces, just compare their weights. The heavier, thicker pieces will tend to be higher quality than their lighter, thinner counterparts.
Words by Brian Yin